BRINGING YOUR PLANTS INDOORS

  Container plants can be moved to a shadier area to get them used to having less light.  Now is the time to clean your windows, as well, to be sure your plants get the maximum amount of light once brought indoors.

Trim back the plant leaves that have dried up or hyellowed and inspect the plant for any stowaways such as sow bugs, scale or aphids.  These insects may be hiding on leaves or around the soil surface.

To force out any hiding pests, spray the plant leaves with your water hose to give it a good washing or submerge it in a bath up to the container rim.  You may also treat the plant with soapy water, insecticidal soap or wipe it with a weak solution of rubbing alcohol to eliminate insects from leaves and stems.

If you are digging up plants to be potted, be sure to get as much of the root mass as possible along with the plant.  Choose a pot that allows for an extra 1 to 2 inches around the sides and bottom of the root ball and fill in with potting soil.

Once indoors, your plants may go into shock from the change in temperature and light intensity.  You may notice wilting, dropped leaves or discoloration.  Pay attention to these symptoms, but resist the temptation to water them more often.  Overwatering is the number one houseplant killer so remember to keep your houseplants on the dryer side.  Plants outdoors lose more water to evaporation and runoff than indoor  plants, so you won’t have to keep up the same watering schedule indoors.  Remember to stop fertilizing as it is only beneficial when the plant is actively growing.

In colder climates, some tender perennials should be brought indoors when the temperature drops.  Plants like Caladiums and Geraniums require a dormant period for optimal health.  Ask the helpful folks at Sneade’s Ace Home Center for the recommended overwintering methods, but in general, plan to dig them up before the first frost, clear off the dirt and store them dry in a room warm enough to prevent freezing for the winter.